Regency - Women's Undergarments Documentation

Documentation for Chemise/Shift:

Points of note

• always made of white/light coloured linen.
• usually mid calf length or knee length
• differing necklines but most common is a drawstring neckline.

Extant examples:

Museum of Fine Arts Boston
Acc.  91.664.51
Linen Chemise.  Normal length, schoop drawstring neckline.
Link and image here. 

Museum of Fina Arts Boston
Acc. 49.898
Longer length linen chemise.  Neckline without drawstring.
Link and image here.

Contemporary images:

La Fureur du Corset 1809
Satirical image.
Shows length of chemise at mid calf and the order of undergarments (i.e. stays/corset over chemise/shift).
Image here

Patterns used:

Kannik's Korner women's shift pattern

Cutting instructions and diagrams from The Lady's Economical Assistant or The Art of Cutting Out and Making The most useful Articles of Wearing Apparel; by a Lady; 1808; London.  (Reprinted reproduction edition - ISBN - 0-9640161-3-3)

Ladies Shifts cutting instructions and diagrams originally printed in Sectum magazine but collated (pg 369 and 370)  in The Lady's Stratagem; Frances Grimble; Lavolta Press, San Francisco, 2009. (ISBN - 978-0-9636517-7-8)

Documentation for Stays:

Points of Note:

• Transitional stays common between 1705 - early 1800s.  Long stays are more common from 1800 - 1825.  Transitional stays not in use by 1820s. 
• Purpose of garment is to support into a shelf-like bust and to separate.  Long stays also promote straight posture through the use of a busk at the front.  Cleavage and/or a reduced waistline is not the desired outcome.
• There are a wide range of styles and patterns used.  Below are only the ones I have used for my own kit. 

Extant examples:

Transitional Stays
Victoria & Albert Museum
Acc. T.237-1983
1790 cotton transitional stays with tabs around the bottom. 
Link and images here.

Jumps
Hereford Museum
In book (pg 102): Corsets Historical Patterns & Techniques Jill Salen, Batsford, London, 2008.
Image online here. 

Long Stays
Jean Hunnisett private collection
d. 1805-1810
In book (pg 43): Period Costume for Stage and Screen: Patterns for Women's Dress 1800 - 1909, Jean Hunnisett, Unwin Paperbacks, London, 1988.
Image online here. 

Contemporary images:

Transitional Stays
The Lady's Dressmaker, from the Book of English Trades, 1818
Drawing of a seamstress at trade.
Online image here.

Long stays
Progress of the toilet, 1810
Satirical image by James Gillray
Online image here.



Documentation for Petticoat:

Extant Examples:

Bodiced Petticoat
Museum of Fine Arts Boston
Acc.  49.876
1820 - 1825 cotton petticoat with a bodice (no sleeves).  Embrodiery around the hem.
Link and images here.


Bodiced Petticoat
National Trust Collection (UK)
Acc. 1359303
1800 - calico bodiced petticoat.
Link and images here.

Bodiced Petticoat
The MET Museum
Acc. C.I.64.26.3
Linen bodiced petticoat with tucks at bottom.  Early 19th C.
Link and images here.


Documentation for Chemisette:


Documentation for Stockings:

Extant Examples:


Contemporary Images:



Documentation for drawers and pantalettes:

Extant Examples:

Pantalettes in Met Museum
Acc.  C.I.46.77.1
1802 - 1820
Very little detail given about size, material (cotton?) etc. 
Link and image here.

Lawn Cotton Open crotch drawers in Manchester Gallery of Costume
Acc. 1947.1175
1810 - 1830
Description only provided here at the museum but there is an image of these drawers in the book 'The History of Underclothes' by C.Willet & Phyllis Cunnington which can be seen here.

In Contemporary Artwork:

'The Virgins Shape Warehouse'
Cartoon at Yale's Image Collection
published 1799
Link and image here.

'Progression of the Toilette' plate 1
By James Gillray
published February 1810
Link and image here.
(note - there is another similar image to this but with a shorter corset but it is a later redraw.)

In Contemporary Texts:

RIFF - Pinterest Pinboard

Pinterest is a quick and common way to collect documentation for items, looks and garments.  Below is a link to the RIFF Pinterest board which is a collaborative pinboard for RIFF members.   It is a dynamic repository and is constantly updated so please check back regularly.

A variety of aspects are documented on our Pinterest board.

Any images referred to or linked to on this blog are also pinned on our RIFF Pinterest board.


GO TO OUR PINTEREST BOARD HERE.

Regency - Food and Recipe Documentation

The following sources are used for contemporary recipes as well as a guide to foods available and dining habits of the Regency era.


The Jane Austen Cookbook;  Maggie Black & Deidre Le Faye;  The British Museum Press;  London 1995.
Note - This book has an excellent foreword about dining in Regency Era.  The recipes in the book are taken from the extant cookbook of Martha Lloyd, a friend and housemate of the Austen family.  The original recipe is provided as well as a modern translation. )

The London Art of Cookery and Housekeeper's Complete Assistant 10th Ed;   John Farley; London 1804.
(Link to full source on google books)

 The Young Woman's Companion or Frugal Housewife; Russell and Allen; Manchester, 1813.
(Link to full source on google books)

The Housekeeper's Instructor... 16th Ed; William Augustus Henderson & Jacob Christopher Schnebbelie; London, 1810. 
(Link to full source on google books)

The Universal Cook, and City and Country Housekeeper... 4th Ed; Francis Collingwood;  London, 1810. 
(Link to full source on google books)

The New London Family Cook;  Duncan McDonald; London, 1808.
(Link to full source on google books)
Note- excellent source on Market shopping as well as full meal plans by the Calendar.

A New System of Domestic Cookery: formed upon principles of economy and adapted for the use of private families;  Rundell  & Maria Eliza Ketelby; Boston 1807. 
(Link to full source on Medical Heritage Library) 

Modern Domestic Cookery and Useful Receipt Book - Adapted for Families in the Middling and Genteel Ranks of Life;  William Augustus Henderson; New York 1828.
(Link to full source on google books)
Note - it's a little later than our period but combined and compared with his earlier book (see above) this is a good source because it's aimed at domestic middling class.

The Lady's Assistant for Regulating and Supplying her Table being a Complete system of Cookery 6th Ed. ;  Mrs. Charlotte Mason; London 1787. 
(Link to full source on google books)
Note - it's a little earlier than our period but likely to still be referred to in some households.  It also is an excellent source for a selection of foods at one meal sitting for a family group.

Regency - Costume Reference Sources (Printed Sources)

Below are a list of books which are regularly used as reference/source for primary documentation, secondary documentation, patterns and general appearance concepts.


Napoleon and the Empire of Fashion 1795 - 1815; Christina Barreto & Martin Lancaster; Skira; Milano, 2010.

Period Costume for Stage & Screen Patterns for Women's Dress 1800 - 1901; Jean Hunnisett; Unwin Paperbacks; London, 1988.

Costume in Detail 1730 - 1930; Nancy Bradfield; Costume and Fashion Press;  Great Britain, 1968.

The Cut of Women's Clothes 1600 - 1930;  Norah Waugh; Theater Arts Group;  New York, 1968.

Patterns of Fashion 1: 1660 - 1860; Janet Arnold; Pan Macmillian UK;  London 1985.



Below are books that are reprints of contemporary publications (or a collection of original articles) that are used as reference/source materials:


The Lady's Economical Assistant, or the ARt of Cutting Out, and Making The most useful Articles of Wearing Apparel by a Lady, 1808. 
(First printed in London 1808 by the Union Printing Office, St. John's Square.)

 The Lady's Stratagem A Repository of 1820s Directions for the Toilet, Mantua-Making, Stay-Making, Millinery & Etiquette;  Frances Grimble;  Lavolta Press;  San Francisco 2009.